Basically the lower the gear you're in the more power will reach the wheels while accelerating. The M42/4 Drive-train consumes ~25% of the engine power (and this is similar with most modern cars) and lightening your flywheel will reduce this loss while under acceleration. A hard clutch is hard to drive, a lightened flywheel is easy provided the clutch matches the engines power output. There is an persistent urban myth that lightening your flywheel will make your car harder to drive and this is categorically false. Over engineering your clutch is probably the biggest mistake anyone makes with setting up their car. Having the clutch instantly engage on a track may be fine, but if you intend to live with your car it is a terrible idea. It is terrible, and this is what deterred me from the UUC option. When you do this your clutch becomes a button. People tend to pair a lighter flywheel with a heavier clutch. My previous experiences with LTW options were always terrible. I ended up getting a Full DMF as I saw no benefit getting a heavy solid flywheel, the difficulty in sourcing an M20 starter (at least in AU was too high to justify) and the UUC option was paired with a heavy duty clutch. I recently needed a new clutch for my car, and when I looked at options I looked at a full DMF, a Valeo DMF replacement (a solid flywheel of equal mass) and a LTW option (M20 Flywheel and the UUC LTW option). That said, I did pay for all the parts I have from RHD. Car Detailing and Show & Shine Prep sponsored by Autogeek.This is a two part post, a specific product review of the new RHD LTW Flywheel specifically for the BMW M42/4 and M50/2 BMW engines (no more sourcing rare M20 starter motors) and a general explanation for anyone who would want to run a LTW Flywheel in any car.įirst off, I would like to disclose that I'm friends with the owner of RHD, I've worked closely with him bringing an ITB kit for the M42/4 engine to life ( more info here ).Car Audio & Electronics sponsored by Bavsound.Tire & Wheel Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack.Suspension Tech and Handling sponsored by.Professional Motorsports sponsored by Bimmerworld.Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing sponsored by.General BMW and Automotive Discussion sponsored by Intercity Lines.Quick Navigation 1988 - 1996 (E34) Go Top Oh, I'm still planning on running a compression test as well. ![]() I'd like to do this all around Xmas when I have time off. anybody know any options that cost less than $450? will a failing flywheel cause this issue and 2. df38e13QQitemZ160490032659QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruc kQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories ![]() I'd love find a new flywheel that only requires me to buy the flywheel and a sprung clutch disk, but I think I'm looking at something like this as the most cost effective option: ![]() Problem is I have a new OEM PP and clutch, and don't want to pay $800 for a new dual mass flywheel. Since I have to yank the damn trans to fix the first gear issue, I figured if needed that's the time to replace the flywheel. Would a failing dual mass flywheel cause these symptoms? There was a recall, but it's long expired.Ĭan you tell my touring is driving me nuts lately? I've been surfing the e39 tourings lately, I just need to fix these latest two issues and get back to more important things.Įver since the swap I've had a slight idle vibration, and it's much worse around 1200 RPM. ![]() I plan to replace it with a later Getrag box from a '99 and up 323i or 525i, which had the issue fixed by then. But the first start, or if I take my foot of the clutch at a long light, and it's a crapshoot. If I downshift from 2nd to 1st it engages properly, so once I'm moving and I remember that it's fine. Don't need clutch issues while towing.Īs for the first gear issue, I have the dreaded Getrag 1st gear failure, it pops out of first if I go from neutral to first. If I do need to replace the flywheel I want to avoid a light flywheel because my wife drives it more than me, and we plan to tow a trailer with it. Then back to vacuum leak testing or just pay for a smoke test. I also checked the coils, the resistance was within range on all of them.Īnyway, next test is a compression test to start with the basics. I used an IR thermometer to check the exhaust, and they were all similar, no glaring issues. I pulled each coil plug at idle, and each seemed to affect idle about the same. Whats wrong with your first gear?The engine shakes round 1500 RPM whether it's in gear or not, it's not so much something in the pedal (but I'll put my foot on the clutch next time and check). If its the flywheel, youll feel the chattering in the pedal when its fully engaged in gear.Ĭould be a misfire or failed motor mount.
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